{"id":5116,"date":"2016-11-28T18:15:00","date_gmt":"2016-11-28T16:15:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.guidealpes.com\/?p=5116"},"modified":"2017-07-06T13:36:42","modified_gmt":"2017-07-06T11:36:42","slug":"verdon-acte-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/blog\/2016\/11\/verdon-acte-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Verdon – acte 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s notre soir\u00e9e \u00e0 Rougon, nous partons ce matin pour, ce qui sera, une belle envol\u00e9e dans “les mains dans le sel” de l’ami Lionel Catso.<\/p>\n

Un arr\u00eat obligatoire \u00e0 La Palud pour un chocolat croissant, et nous nous dirigeons au parking sur la route des cr\u00eates. <\/p>\n

L’approche de cette voie est d\u00e9j\u00e0 en soit, une petite course. D’abord un sentier, parfois raide, o\u00f9 il ne vaut mieux pas tr\u00e9bucher. Puis, apr\u00e8s quelques mains courantes suspendues, place aux rappels. Le dernier nous d\u00e9pose \u00e0 quelques dizaines de m\u00e8tre au dessus de l’eau, dans une niche. <\/p>\n

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Nous voil\u00e0 donc au pied de la premi\u00e8re longueur. Je pars rapidement dedans car une cord\u00e9e de 3 nous rejoint au relais. Il s’agit d’anciens stagiaires BE issus de la m\u00eame promotion que moi. La longueur surprend un peu. Un 6b+ un peu “moussu” n’autorisant pas \u00e0 l’escalade d\u00e9tendue. Romain part dans la seconde longueur. Un 6a, plut\u00f4t ++, car un pas retord ferme l’acc\u00e8s au relais. La 3\u00e8me longueur sera mienne. Un 7a, fissure, o\u00f9 mon manque de conti aura raison du “\u00e0 vue”. Peu important, il s’agit d’une nouvelle longueur majeure de cette voie, qui en compte de nombreuses. Le “L” part dans la 4\u00e8me, un 6c+ qui envoie bien. Un peu physique pour le passage du bomb\u00e9\/toit, puis technique dans un di\u00e8dre joli mais demandant de la concentration et de l’intuition. Je “d\u00e9roule” dans le 6a suivant dont le th\u00e8me est : fissure. La 6\u00e8me longueur est une pure beaut\u00e9. On doit louvoyer sur le fil du pilier, dans une cotation abordable 6b+. Il s’agit de la longueur photog\u00e9nique ! La 7\u00e8me longueur est un 6b tout aussi majeur qui part en travers\u00e9e sur la gauche dans du rocher d’abord orange, puis typique verdonesque. Le “L” s’attaque ensuite \u00e0 la derni\u00e8re longueur tr\u00e8s verticale, dans un style Verdon. Comprenez gouttes d’eau, z\u00e9ro pied, ambiance plus qu’a\u00e9rienne. Il s’en sortira haut la main. Nous finissons \u00e0 corde tendu sur plus de 80m et pouvons profiter des derniers rayons du soleil dans les gorges. 20min de marche et nous retrouvons, pas m\u00e9content de notre aventure, la voiture. <\/p>\n

Nous f\u00eatons notre voie dans un des restaurants de Castellane avant de revenir \u00e0 Rougon pour notre dernier nuit.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s notre soir\u00e9e \u00e0 Rougon, nous partons ce matin pour, ce qui sera, une belle envol\u00e9e dans “les mains dans le sel” de l’ami Lionel Catso.
\nLire la suite…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5129,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[63,34,18],"tags":[66,45,68,126],"class_list":["post-5116","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing","category-our-trip","category-photo","tag-climbing","tag-france","tag-rock","tag-verdon","et-bg-layout-dark","et-white-bg"],"aioseo_notices":[],"yoast_head":"\nVerdon - acte 1 - Guide Alpes<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/blog\/2016\/11\/verdon-acte-1\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Verdon - acte 1 - Guide Alpes\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Apr\u00e8s notre soir\u00e9e \u00e0 Rougon, nous partons ce matin pour, ce qui sera, une belle envol\u00e9e dans "les mains dans le sel" de l'ami Lionel Catso. 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Encore une belle trouvaille de l'ami Lionel, ouvreur et explorateur vertical de son \u00e9tat ;-).\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Climbing"","block_context":{"text":"Climbing","link":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/sujet\/climbing\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Catso-Angry-1.jpg?fit=675%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Catso-Angry-1.jpg?fit=675%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Catso-Angry-1.jpg?fit=675%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":6930,"url":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/blog\/2017\/10\/un-gout-de-verdon-a-comboire\/","url_meta":{"origin":5116,"position":1},"title":"Un go\u00fbt de Verdon \u00e0 Comboire","author":"Guide Alpes","date":"Friday October 13th, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Sorry, this entry is only available 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2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Annot ou comment passer une excellente journ\u00e9e automnale, en mode escalade traditionnelle. C'est avec le comp\u00e8re de toujours, le \"L\", qu'on ira titiller avec pudeur les fissures de gr\u00e8s qui jouissent d'une renomm\u00e9e internationale. Malgr\u00e9 le monde, le local de l'\u00e9tape nous trouvera un secteur peu peupl\u00e9 aux cotations... Lire\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Climbing"","block_context":{"text":"Climbing","link":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/sujet\/climbing\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Annot-10.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Annot-10.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Annot-10.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Annot-10.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/guidealpes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Annot-10.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5116","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5116"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5116\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5671,"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5116\/revisions\/5671"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5129"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5116"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5116"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guidealpes.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5116"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}